Papua: Lost in the Baliem Valley with the Dani Tribe
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Papua: Lost in the Baliem Valley with the Dani Tribe

February 11, 20187 min readby William & Augustina

We spent 4 days trekking through the highlands of Papua with the Dani tribe β€” short, very tough, and one of the most memorable things we've done.

Into the Highlands

Hi Guys! We are back after 4 days from the jungles in the highlands of Papua. It was short, but very tough and memorable experience. Firstly, we arrived to Wamena (the main city of central Papua). We didn't feel very comfortable in this city compared to Jayapura. Somehow, you can feel some tension and anger from the people. It was quite weird! Once we left the city to reach villages, it was completely different.

Just arrived in Wamena, Papua, Indonesia
Just arrived in Wamena, Papua, Indonesia

So, once landed and got our permit (yes, you need one to hike!), we were heading directly to the Dani tribe villages. By an honest mistake (because local transportation system was not easy to grasp), we ended up in Pugima village instead of Kurima (the "big" village where people usually starts their trek in the Baliem Valley). Because we love adventures, we follow our instinct to start our trek at Pugima.

First meal in Pugima village
First meal in Pugima village

After a few discussions with the villagers using a dictionary, we spent the night there and started our trek the next morning. Even if the village people are quite modern nowadays, our daily things looks very strange for them. For example, building our tent was a huge show for everyone.

Before sleeping in Pugima village
Before sleeping in Pugima village

The Trek

Next morning a young guy of 21 years old (of course no English, so our Indonesian is getting better every day) proposed to be our guide for the day to go to Hitugi in the south (by crossing several another villages). We think this trek was one of the hardest we did because there was no footpath everywhere, slippery rocks, holes, things to climb and even lack of drinking water. But experiences are unforgettable.

On the way to Woruba village
On the way to Woruba village

High quality footpath
High quality footpath

One of the tradition of Dani people is to cut woman fingers when you lost a very close person (brother, mother ...). It's forbidden normally today.

One of the tradition of Dani people is to cut woman fingers when you lost very close person. It's forbidden normally today
One of the tradition of Dani people is to cut woman fingers when you lost very close person. It's forbidden normally today

Traditional Dani house
Traditional Dani house

We crossed and slept in Yomote village where people still live in very simple conditions (for example using just rain water, no electricity, cooking on fire, eating mostly sweet potatoes that they grow in small fields). The village usually is just a few simple wooden houses. But what we will remember the most is how happy and smiling people were.

Mama is cooking sweet potatoes
Mama is cooking sweet potatoes

Picture from above in Yomote village!
Picture from above in Yomote village!

The Dani people house and our tent!
The Dani people house and our tent!

After a very nice evening with them, next morning, we started to go down by reaching a few villages until the Baliem river (Hitigima village). We were very tired and weak after the trek. So, we started to go back to Wamena and we hitchhiked a car which was really cool!

Baliem river
Baliem river

Saying goodbye to our new friends
Saying goodbye to our new friends

We had a really good taste of this side of Papua but it requires at least 7 to 10 days to reach remote places and tribes where you will find more traditional habits.

Jayapura by Scooter

We rested well in Wamena and next morning, we've been at the airport hoping to find two seats to come back to Jayapura. We were lucky! Thus, we explored the city on the scooter (William's Parisian "no rules" driving skills was very useful this time).

First time we took our backpack with us directly in the aircraft
First time we took our backpack with us directly in the aircraft

50% chance flying / 50% chance crashing ... No, we're kidding!
50% chance flying / 50% chance crashing ... No, we're kidding!

Jayapura is a city with a lot of contrasts (simple houses, castles, military bases, broken road or new ones, etc.) and we really loved it!

Jayapura from the hills
Jayapura from the hills

Selfy on the scooter (safe safe!)
Selfy on the scooter (safe safe!)

Now we are heading to Sorong and Raja Ampat. To see the paradise part of Papua. This is the place known for its impressive diving reefs. Be prepared again to see some fish pictures!

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