Esfahan: Chess in the Park, Crêpes in the Air, and a City Lit Up at Night
All stories

Esfahan: Chess in the Park, Crêpes in the Air, and a City Lit Up at Night

July 10, 20187 min readby William & Augustina

The magnificent Naqsh-e Jahan Square, a palace chess match with a kind old man, the breathtaking Mosque Shah, walking a dry riverbed to see the Khaju Bridge — and making crêpes for our hosts on the last night.

Esfahan, Iran was really nice experience for us! Once we reached the city, our CouchSurfing host took us for a walk to show us the big and famous Naqsh-e Jahan Square. This is the place with one of the biggest bazars in Iran. We saw very skilled creators doing the nicest and so unique things! And they are eager to show how they do everything. We also took a tea in an interesting place where the owner loves lamps (check the photos :) ). There were so many attached to the ceilings!

Naqsh-e Jahan Square
Naqsh-e Jahan Square

Day 1: The Square, the Handicrafts, and the Lamp Shop

It was a fast and good start thanks to Hamid :-)

Naqsh-e Jahan Square
Naqsh-e Jahan Square

Bazaar and handicrafts!
Bazaar and handicrafts!

Bazaar and handicrafts!
Bazaar and handicrafts!

Bazaar and handicrafts!
Bazaar and handicrafts!

Bazaar and handicrafts!
Bazaar and handicrafts!

Nice play for tea!
Nice play for tea!

Really nice tunnel of light each evening in Esfahan
Really nice tunnel of light each evening in Esfahan

Day 2: Chess, Palaces, and the Mosque Shah

Next morning, we came back the same way and stopped by in the Rajayi park where a lot of old men play cards and chess. There is also the beautiful Hasht Behesht Palace. One of them super kindly invited William to play. He loved it, but lost 2 times... William hates losing!

Rajayi park
Rajayi park

Hasht Behesht Palace
Hasht Behesht Palace

Hasht Behesht Palace
Hasht Behesht Palace

We continued by visiting a big palace (Chehel Sotoun) and the Mosque Shah. We ended in the bazaar to admire all the handicrafts :-)

Mosque Shah
Mosque Shah

Mosque Shah
Mosque Shah

Mosque Shah
Mosque Shah

Mosque Shah
Mosque Shah

For evening, we walked along the dry river (sad result of climate change and poor environmental politics) to see the famous bridges (Khaju Bridge) and came back home to have a fun evening with our hosts!

Khaju Bridge
Khaju Bridge

Khaju Bridge
Khaju Bridge

Day 3: Shopping, the Armenian Quarter, and Crêpes

We slept long for once, relaxed and did a few French papers... Hamid and Bahare were so nice and generous with us that it was difficult to payback and show how grateful we were. So, we managed for evening to invite them in a really good restaurant close by (Shahrzad Restaurant) where we tried Fesenjoon, Kabab Koobideh and Khoresh Mast.

Iranian food is fully part of their culture ;-) So good!
Iranian food is fully part of their culture ;-) So good!

Traditional restaurant, we took lunch there within the bazaar
Traditional restaurant, we took lunch there within the bazaar

Thanks to them we spent really good days in Esfahan and learnt again so much about Iran and its people. We finished our evening by another walk in the city and we saw the Armenian quarter which is maybe the corner of the city we loved the most.

Next morning, we came back to the park. William met again with the same man. He won 3 times but the kind man played easy (too kind!). We came back to the bazar where we found good presents (Iranian red tea, small camel box...). And William bought a Chess board! We just need to manage shipping them to Europe... (it's way too heavy for the backpack).

Rajayi park, playing chess
Rajayi park, playing chess

We also did some crêpes for our host for our last evening with them and taught them how to flip it in the air :-)

Doing crepes!
Doing crepes!

Watching France vs Uruguay!
Watching France vs Uruguay!

From Esfahan with love :-) Thanks a lot Hamid and Bahare for everything. See you in Europe next time!

July 4–10, 2018

iranesfahanmosque shahnaqsh e-jahancouchsurfingbazaarkhaju bridgepersian food